10 tips for getting started or progressing in surfing.
Surfing is much more than a simple aquatic activity, it is a liberating experience that takes you into a whirlwind of salty emotions.
While some people simply see waves, surf enthusiasts discern an irresistible call to freedom, adventure and the ultimate connection with nature.
A meditative activity, focused on its environment, which is, let us say very often, extraordinary.
A sporting moment in front of yourself.
If surfing is a dream, many of us have encountered its difficulty. Yes, catching nice waves is earned, unrewarding, frustrating... whatever you want.
But if you have been stung by these extraordinary sensations, of sliding on a wave, these butterflies in the stomach (better than love) that the sensation of a good wave while surfing, the water, the sun on the skin, and that despite all the obstacles of this sport you have decided to progress, we have prepared some advice for you, valid for beginners as well as for intermediate people... or even for certain advice, expert practitioners .
Yes, because once you are comfortable on a 50cm wave, you have to be comfortable on a 1m, 1m50 wave, and so on, then move from a foam board to a hard board, different types of boards and thicknesses, different maneuvers, figures, in short whatever their level, their surfing practice is constantly evolving, taking us out of our comfort zone perpetually.
Even if it means frustrating us when we want to go too fast, when our body, or Nature, doesn't follow us.
So how to start or progress this year?
A word from the founder of Tone:
If I was able to write these lines, it is because I have been surfing since I was 15 and yet I only started to progress almost 10/15 years later...
Living in Paris, I was frustrated, yet I made enormous progress during my vacation. Then I started applying these principles.
1. Create moments to surf
For those who live in the city, this could be weekends or vacations.
For those who live near the ocean, it means leaving a niche to do it.
Regularity can be key.
Try to go surfing with people who surf better than you and who you can follow because they are always in a good position.
2. Learn to read surf forecast and know your limits
If you are comfortable in 50cm, then the best thing is to go surfing when there is this size to be sure to enjoy it to the fullest.
And if you are in doubt, go back to the previous size you were comfortable at.
To do this, nothing could be simpler: look at a surf forecast application:
Windguru
Surfline
Knowing your limits is essential, so as not to become frustrated, scared, and above all not to put yourself in danger.
3. Mental Work
This is almost the biggest part of the job for some of us.
Mental strength: because it is necessary to accept being shaken a little by the foam, the waves, the board, the other surfers
Perseverance: Because yes, after having done 5 somewhat difficult sessions, you have to persevere to go further
Self-confidence: essential to take your wave, don't hesitate to say a few affirmations to yourself "I can do it" "This wave is for me" "I'm not afraid" "I know how to do it", and for Having tested it, on myself or with friends, it works. Directly afterwards we generally have a good wave :)
Acceptance: Accept your limits, work on them, without getting frustrated
4. Keep yourself in shape physically
Surfing is also about muscle and cardio. All bodies, all ages can do it, but it will be easier and faster with muscle in the arms, abdominals, legs, and back, thanks to bodyweight training for example.
The explosiveness of the take-off (standing up on the board) with burpees, running, flexibility.
A good mix of running, yoga, and training can be key.
5. Don't hesitate to take classes again
In the mountains, you wouldn't imagine setting off on a slope without having taken lessons. It's the same thing in the Ocean, it can be dangerous.
When you lose confidence, a short course can boost that.
Of course this has a cost... but maybe you can ask this person you know who surfs well to coach you a little for free, or in exchange for another service?
Try to focus on one thing at a time, work on one thing during this class:
For beginners: a take-off without a knee, look into the distance, stand on the board
For intermediates: Lower your center of gravity, open your arms, direct turns with your arms and upper body, take a step on the board for longboards
For the experts: I won't comment :)
6. Know the ethics and rules of prioririties, this is key.
To ensure order and safety in the water, there are essential priority rules. This will help you not get angry with other surfers, and will ensure everyone's safety.
One person per wave
The innermost person has priority
Return to the peak from the outside (so as not to obstruct anyone's path)
Do not obstruct the trajectory of the person on the wave
Etc., etc...
7. Holidays, week-ends at surf camps
If financially possible, taking a good surf camp in a simple surfing destination - and having a regular lesson with the teachers, makes incredible progress.
Some destinations and seasons are easier for waves, Sri Lanka, Indonesia in low season (otherwise the waves can be huge), Nicaragua (Las Plumerias, my favorite surf camp), Morocco, the South of Portugal. .. and many others.
In 1 to 2 weeks, you can really unlock new skills.
8. Trust your cellular memory
When we're frustrated, we tell ourselves that we can't do it anymore, or won't be able to do it anymore, especially when it's been a long time since we've been in the water. But the body and its cells have an extraordinary memory, they remember our movements, and are capable of reproducing them.
Trust yourself.
9.Don't lose motivation in winter, or when your body needs rest
Be patient
Don't lose motivation, just be patient
When you have a moment you don't manage so well anymore to surf, it's ok, it will come back, with summer, with surf holidays, or with a teacher giving you this self-confidence back.
See you in the water